Fearless and Blushing – Wine Spectator Exposé

The Cocktail Hour – Starts the Weekend Blushing

It’s not only Manchester New Hampshire’s finest restaurants that serve blush wines so fearlessly. It’s also Wine Spectator Winners such as Osteria L’Intrepido (“Fearless Restaurant”) that serves blush wines. But wait, you say, Wine Spectator likes blush wines? Not really.

Milan’s Osteria L’Intrepido restaurant won Wine Spectator magazine’s award of excellence this year despite a wine list that features a 1993 Amarone Classico Gioe S. Sofia, which the magazine once likened to “paint thinner and nail varnish.”

According to LA Times, Wine Spectator drinks a hearty glass of blush, there was just one problem. The restaurant was a complete fabrication. Robin Goldstein devised the hoax to expose the nature of Wine Spectator’s dubious awards. Are they genuine measures of a restaurant’s wine list quality or simply a fund raising technique for the magazine? (Over a million in revenue ain’t nothing to sneeze at.)

You can decide for yourself, but surely the $250 entry fee seemed to be more critical in this case to the award than whether or not the restaurant actually existed. Pretty amusing and provocative article in the LA Times. Thanks to Caleb for the tip.

This rosé has braille on the label. C’est Magnifique!

And speaking of drinking pink…

Remember when Todd diLamuca (Bill Murray) tried to woo Lisa Loopner (Gilda Radner) with Mateus wine in the Loopner’s rec room? It was one of the best SNL skits partly because it was dead on skewering so many of our childhood embarrassing moments. The awkward kid who thinks he’s Hugh Hefner, the budding hormones, and rosé wine.

For years, Rosés were so bad and so uniformly associated with cheap swill, no true wine fan would touch them. Maybe a Provence rose but those were hard to come by. White Zin? Fuggedaboutit! Those, we all knew, were just one step removed from wine coolers. A mere marketing ploy to use up an overproduction of zin grapes.

Now, thankfully we’re enjoying an abundance of rosé options. From the popular and easily quaffable Red Bicycletta, to the New Mexico Gruet rose bubbly. Enjoying a 65% growth increase, this category of wines is particularly easy to pair with light summer meals. Check out Bauer Wines (Best of Boston 2008) for their delicious and affordable Rosé Sampler called Everything’s Coming up Roses. Click here for more info, ordering. And be sure to tell ‘em The Leather District Gourmet sent you! Remember, they saved me from my Dining-In Nightmare. And, they deliver!

~ by jacqueline1230 on August 22, 2008.

4 Responses to “Fearless and Blushing – Wine Spectator Exposé”

  1. I am thrilled you made a call out to my manchester amuse bouche white zinfandel.

    I am excited to see that belleruche has a rose; their whites are fantastic (they taste like honey). Rhone Valley is now considered a major region to watch, producing far more than peppery Syrah.

    Rose is the new Sancerre, meaning it has the value of the sauvignon standard 15 years ago…before its prices jumped a solid $10-15/a bottle. We just spotted Sancerre on a wine list at an unnamed establishment for $15/glass. Please. And the restaurant wasn’t L’Espalier/No 9 Park/Aujourd’hui caliber by any means.

    There will be a Ride for Rose September 7th in the south end…hitting 5-6 places, money goes to the animal rescue league…i will give you info when i know more!

    BTW — ‘Ride’ is code for ‘Walk’

  2. I thought ride was code for sex. No wonder I’m not getting any!

  3. [...] Fearless and Blushing, I wrote recently about the the blush wine hoax pulled by a fake restaurant to expose Wine [...]

  4. [...] written about the labels that included braille: the “in addition to” labels I found. For a really interesting read see Clotilde’s interview of a blind cook. And the dark dining [...]

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